\¥ E I R ' S 
IS j^ jlm j^ Tsr c :Ei 

AND 
FOR 

CUniNG COATS, 

CALCULATED TO FIT ALL VARIETY OF. SHAPES, 

WITH UNERRING CERTAINTY. 



TRUTH can harm nobody, and therefore it is no injustice to 
others to say, that experience.has decided, that this System, based 
on Proof Measures, finding its own balance, is superior to anything 
yet published on Cutting Garments. 



BOSTON: 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM ELDER, 52 LEVERET STREET. 

1855. 



WEIR'S 

:0 .^ 3L. ^^ T«^ O £3 

1 AKD 

PROOF MEASURE SYSTEM, 

— — -Foa— — 

CUTTING COATS, 

CALCULATED TO FIT ALL VAKIETY OF SHAPES, 

WITH UNERRING CERTAINTY. 



TRUTH can harm nobody, and therefore it is no injustice to others to 
0fty, that experience has decided, that this System, based on Proof Measures 
finding its own balance, is superior to anything yet published on Cutting; 
Garments. 



BOSTON: 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM ELDER, 62 LEVBRET STREET. 

1855. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, 
BY ROBERT WEIR, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 



^'M 



dH 



ID -^71/ 



INTEODUCTION- 



In every new undertaking of a public cliaracter, it is expected 
that the projector will offer some reasons for embarking in the en- 
terprise ; and more especially is this true in regard to publications, 
either intended to advocate old theories, or to introduce new ones. 
The multiplicity of books, charts, etc., for the advancement of 
useful knowledge, warrants the expectation, that the new author 
should, at least, briefly state his claims to popular attention. In 
the present .case, it will appear the more proper, from the fact, that 
we are entering upon a somewhat trodden path. 

Improvements in the mechanic arts, and inventions calculated 
to lessen the application of manual labor, arc identified with the 
history of the present age. The practical effects which have re- 
sulted from this spirit of enterprise and improvement are to be 
witnessed in almost every department of operative industry, and 
have opened for the aspiring and ambitious new avenues to wealth 
and fame. 

Every person who reviews the history of the past few years, 
can but recognize the rapid march of improvement, and the tri- 
umph of new truths in science and art, over old dogmas and a 
a long established course of error ; antiquated customs have been 
shaken off, false theories have given way before the light of 
science, rude and uncouth mechanism has become fashioned by 
art — indeed " progi'oss" has characterized all measures for the. 
public good, and the arts have attained a degree of perfection 
which few of us could, twenty years ago, have anticipated. 

Although the ordinary mechanical pursuits have in some instances 
been overlooked in the advancement of public enterprises of mag- 
nitude, still it is believed that in these departments of industry 



there is a field for useful and practical improvements, and it can- 
not be denied that, of late, some successful efforts have been 
made in the science of which the present work treats. 

Much has been written and published of late years with a view 
of improving the art of cutting. Many systems have been pro- 
posed and adopted, and doubtless much benefit has been derived 
by their observance, but the sinister and injudicious policy which 
leads each projector of a system to extol his own, to the utter 
exclusion of others, tends very much to render all useless, from 
neglect, unless some work of a more prominent character than has 
yet appeared shall give them publicity, and the commendation 
they merit. Habit has indeed a most powerful influence upon the 
acceptance or rejection of theories ; old prejudices are not easily 
removed. That there may be persons whose judgement is so 
discriminating, and whose conceptions are so clear, that they 
seldom miss their object, we are perfectly willing to allow, there 
is httle probability that such persons will forsake their usual course 
to adopt a new one, and there is little need of such a change ; 
but there are others less favored, who so pertinaciously adhere to 
past usages, that rather than submit to the guidance of any system 
for measurmg and cutting, they will risk and endure the incon- 
venience and expense of making alterations. There is no gentleman 
who does not wish that his shall be a smooth and neat fitting gar- 
ment, and none, who who is willing to pay for those which he is 
conscious have been spoiled by neglect, inattention or a bad sys- 
tem, the small sum paid out for a good system is money well in- 
vested. 

Within fifteen or twenty years gi'eater attention has perhaps 
been given to improvements in Cutting, than has been bestowed 
upon any other of the operative branches of industry. Systems 
have multiplied almost without number, and great anxiety for im- 
provement has been evinced in the expenditures for these rules. 
It is well known to the profession, that, previous to the introduc- 
tion of the " Third Rule," or the " Old Thirds," as commonly 
called, that Cutting was governed by no fixed principle whatever, 



— this was the first attempt to apply the science of numbers, to the 
purpose of making diagrams for Cutting. This, the reader will 
understand, was a breast measure system. No sooner was it in- 
troduced, than it was found to bo defective ; there was, however, 
one very important point gained — there was data furnished from 
which inventive minds could reason, and it is from this point we 
date the extraordinary improvements that have marked the pro- 
gress of our business. 

The principles connected with the division of the measure, have 
been applied in more than a thousand different ways, still defects 
remain. The systems which have followed each other in rapid 
succession since, have been no more successful, yet some of the 
authors have pretended to reach the ne plus ultra ; this has been 
done so frequently, that the man who would now present anything 
new upon the subject, would incur the risk of appearing ridiculous. 

Neither the " Third Rule,"' or any other breast measure system, 
is a good guide to fitting, nor ever will be, until all mankind gi'ow 
in one uniform shape. The trade has, notwithstandmg, gained 
gTcat benefit from certain systems, and they are worthy of preser- 
vation. Should every other revolution in the art be productive of 
as much good, we may hope to see the time, when the employment 
of " bushelmen" will be confined to repairing. 

We have frequently met with inventors of rules, who, upon en- 
quiry for an explanation of the various scales and divisions used 
by them in drafting, could give no other answer, than that such 
was the rule, and that they discovered its operation more by chance, 
than by any fixed principle, or sound reasoning. Such arbitraiy 
and inexplicable rules, can be of but little utility. What would 
any intelligent man think of a system, published by such a person ? 
He could but regard the production as trash, and the inventor as 
an imposter. No attempt seems to have been made to criticise 
these so called rules, in public, or by investigation, to expose the 
total lack of principles, upon which they are claimed to be estab- 
lished. It would be apparent to any imprejudiced mind, that they 
were " cabbaged," or made up of parts of other systems, published 



6 



and sold to the unwary, as original inventions. Certainly this is 
not just, and the man who would knowingly lend his name as ref- 
erence or endorsement of such publications, is undeserving of pub- 
lic confidence. 

That the unnecessary multiplication of rules, is, in itself, an evil, 
every candid thinking man will admit. If every author or pub- 
lisher were called upon, by way of introduction, to give a full and 
accurate explanation of the principles upon which his system is said 
to be based, it would tend to check the operations of those ignorant 
pretenders, who have overspread the country with a variety of rules 
and systems, which are not worth the paper upon which they are 
printed. The multiplicity of these valueless publications, or the 
prejudices of those who have suffered from the imposition of these 
" catch-penny s," have, through fear of being hoaxed a second time, 
declined to patronise any work, whether it should possess merit or 
otherwise. 

"VVe are not fanatical, or foolishly radical in our views, nor are 
we so stupidly conservative, as to repudiate all progress, as evil ; 
we favor progress in the right direction, — that progress which pro- 
motes the public welfare. A few moments of observation in our 
public streets, will convince any person of taste and judgment, that 
the business of cutting, is not unfrequently conducted by persons 
wholly incompetent. Nothing can be more displeasing to the eye 
of taste, than the appearance of the miserable apologies for gar- 
ments, which, in some cases, are worn by persons who are wholly 
unconscious that they possess any great defects. Let us endeavor 
to detect the lurkingplace of this mischief, and, if possible, expose 
it to the light, and by the combined wisdom of those who may wish 
to promote the respectability of the profession, a remedy may be 
pointed out. 



GENERAL REMARKS, 



Pkecepts and rules should be few, natural, and expressed with 
precision, and should occupy but a small space. In performing 
the service here called for, it is proposed to enter into a succinct 
review of the most popular of the systems that have been made 
public. A brief analysis only, will be presented, and the excellen- 
cies and defects of each pointed out. We shall, of course, be under 
some restraint, in regard to systems that are protected by copy- 
rights, and intend to steer our course with regard to them all, so 
that no injury shall be sustained by their owners, in consequence 
of our labor, any further than candor and fidelity shall absolutely 
require. So far, however, as we differ in opinion, that difference 
shall be freely expressed, although we shall " nothing extenuate, 
or set down ought in mahce." 

The breast measure system, is the first in order, because it was 
the first introduced. This system is known by different names ; 
it is called the mathematical rule, because the points of the draft 
are obtained by the combined calculations of division, addition, etc. 
The breast measure is made the basis of all the calculations. It 
now appears plain, that the basis of this rule is wrong, as applied 
to fitting the body, for whatever diversities may exist in the form- 
ation of a number of individuals, measuring the same around the 
chest, a third, a sixth, a twelfth, or a half, a fourth, or an eighth, 
will be the same in all cases, although each man may require vari- 
ations peculiar to himself. It was originally assumed, that a third 
of half the breast measure, would give the right distance between 
certain points of a draft, that a fourth would give another, and so 
on. The man of mere figures followed the directions before him, 
and if he happened to fit well on the first trial, he, of course, pro- 
nounced the plan admirable ; but some how or other, he found out 
that the plan did not work so well as at first supposed. This has 



8 



led him to tliiiik tliat something is wrong. He will naturally ask 
what is the matter ? The system cannot be any worse than when 
he purchased it ; the fault, he will conclude, was in himself ; he 
will try again. He will, perhaps, vary the plan, by which he could 
fit a good form, and attempt to make it applicable to fitting a bad 
form, but with no better success. 

While in this perplexity, a man enters, with an improvement on 
the breast measure rule. This is the very thing he wanted. He 
takes the improvement, and goes to work with new spirits ; but, 
alas, he has only changed the difficulty — the error still remains. 
In a word, the basis of this system is wrong, and no calculation or 
deduction can make it right. 

The shoulder measure, as adopted by Mr. Hearne, and used in 
connection with the breast, was an improvement m the right direc- 
tion, but still subject to a few of the difficulties attending the breast 
measure. Subsequently other shoulder measures were added, and 
systematized by Mr. Madison, and others, by which it has arrived 
at a certain degree of perfection, which warrants another attempt 
to remove all difficulties attending it. We have at present, more 
than a hundred different systems before ns ; nearly all of them be- 
long to the same family, that is, the breast measure for basis. 
And oui! remarks are equally applicable to all. 

There is another class of systems in use, which claims our atten- 
tion, and deserves a passing notice. This class of rules differs in 
every particular from the last mentioned. It is founded on the 
actual measuring principle, by some, called the harness system, 
with buckle and strap attached ; this is a method of taking measures 
by means of a strap of leather, or steel, passed around the body, 
under the arms, and fastened with a buckle, and from certain pivots 
in front, and back, the distance to all the various parts of the body 
are ascertained. This method claims originality and accuracy, in 
all its measures, and unerring certainty in transferring the measure 
taken to the cloth. As for the truth of the statement, we leave it 
to those who have used the rule, to decide. The majority of those 
with whom we have conversed on the subject, say, that it is very 



9 

troublesome to the cutter, and annoying to the customer ; the mea- 
sures are complicated, and will not, when applied to the cloth, give 
to a certainty that for which they were intended. For our part, 
we thinli of this method, that it is very good, when in the hands of 
an intelligent, practical cutter, — otherwise, it will increase the too 
prevalent practice, of employ ieg bushelling men. 

We now proceed to set forth the improvements and advantages 
of this system, over all preceding ones. 

In the prosecution of the task in which we have been engaged, 
three things were necessary ; first, to produce a set of measures, 
which would ascertain the various points of a coat, otherwise there 
would be no accuracy. Secondly, that the same measures would 
mdicate in what position the person stood. Thirdly, to systema- 
tize those measures, so as to fit all variety of shapes and forms, 
according to the measures taken. 

These objects are attained, and we are satisfied with the results. 
The measure are neither numerous nor complicated, being those 
measures that cutters generally apply, to find if the draft is cor- 
rect, and called proof measures ; this being the case, why not make 
those proof measures the basis for building an unerring system 
upon. 

1. From the top of the back, to the full length of waist, say 
18 inches. 

2. From the top of the back, passing the measure in front of 
the arm, and continuing to the full leng-th of waist, 26 inches, — 
this is the balance measure. The difference between these two 
measures, is 8 inches, which is called the balance. By the bal- 
ance, we ascertain the position in which the person stands, whether 
stooped or straight ; if stooped, the difference will be less, and if 
straight, the diflference will be more. This balance, we claim as 
original, and will protect it. 

3. Blade measure. 

4. Upper shoulder measure. 

5. Lower shoulder measure. 

The three last-named measures are systematLzed, so as to fit any 



10 



form or shajDe. By strictly following the dictates of this theory, 
the cutter will be certain of a good fitting coat, without trying it 
on, before finished. This, we believe, is a common practice with 
some cutters. 

What a depravity of genius in the nineteenth century, when 
every art is striving for the mastery ! There is no situation more 
awkward, than that of a cutter, who has mutilated his employer's 
cloth, which will frequently be the case, when a man has nothing 
but the poor resource of chance, or hope, that his v/ork will fit. 

It is a fact, that many employers have clothes thrown upon their 
hands, to a considerable amount, besides what they may have dis- 
posed of, by alterations. Such circumstances as these, must ever 
happen, while people are content to remain in ignorance. To be 
uninfoimed, may be the lot of many, whose inexperience has not 
furnished them with opportunities to compass the matter in question. 
True genius is not the lot of every one ; yet almost every man is 
sufficiently enabled, by application and perseverance in certain 
rudiments, to acquire such a knowledge in any common manufac- 
turing business, as will answer the practice of it. Some tailors sit 
down in the forlorn hope of struggling through, without ever en- 
quiring further than the maxims of his father, or the erroneous 
principles of some antiquated breast measure rule. Such poverty 
of genius has always inhabited the minds of some men ; or they 
never would have continued so long in such egregious errors ! 
which liave been handed down from father to son. One of the 
first things to be acquired, in order to tlie improvement of arts, 
and the enlarging of our ideas, is for a time to step out of the 
beaten way of common practice, and by a prudent reserve, make 
strict and judicious enquiries into the matter j^ou would investi- 
gate, before you make any anti-conclusions to the theme in ques- 
tion. We are not unapprized of the objections which may be 
made to the bold assertion of arriving at perfection in any art. 

We must confess, our best knowledge Is sometimes imperfect and 
fallacious ; after all our confidence, it is possible, things may be 
otherwise ; this must be the case, when demonstrations are raised 



i 



11 



from false principles ; but when genuine effects are produced, and 
proportionate systems appear from efficient causes ; and wlien the 
object is within the boundaries of our intellects, we must pronounce 
the axiom incontrovertible. 

The positive assertions of hypothesis, we own, may be alleo-ed 
to be full of difficulty and doubt, especially in the art of cutting 
garments when the least error of appropriating or uniting the most 
trifling separation of any of the parts, would tend to produce a 
misfitting garment. This we may admit, but this could not hap- 
pen where the practice is coincident with the theory. We hope 
our maxims will be universal; that every one may know and 
practice them : study the pruiciple of each measure, and how it is 
applied on the draft, to correspond with the part over which the 
measure passes : when these things are attained, the draft can be 
executed with ease and satisfaction. 



12 



MEASUREMENT. 

The order of the measures as taken, are as follows : — 

1. Before you request your customer to take off his coat, place your mea- 
sure at the top of the back, and find the full length of the waist, say 18in. ; 
continue to full length of skirt. This measure is taken over the coat, in 
order to find the length of waist accurately. You will now request your 
customer to take off his coat, make a mark between the shoulder blades, 
say 8 1-2 inches from the top of the back ; then place your measure at the 
top of the back, as before, and measure to the full length of waist, 18 in, ; 
make a mark at this place. 

2. Still holding the measure under the thumb of the left hand, at the top 
of the back, pass it round in front of the arm, and find the distance to the 
length of waist at 18in. ; say 26 inches. 

3. Pass the measure close under the arm, and over the most prominent 
part of the shoulder blade, to the mark S}^, say 22 inches. 

4. Carry the measure up to the top of the back, at the place of begin- 
ning, say 25 inches. 

5. Now drop the measure down the centre of the back, about 4 or 5 in. 
between the back scyes, and pass it around in front of the arm, and back 
to place of beginning, say 25} o inches. 

6. The length of sleeve, 33 inches. 

7. Around the breast. 

8. Around the waist. 

All those measures are taken tight, except the balance measure. 



RECAPITULATION. 

To the mark between the shoulder blades, 8)^. 

To natural length of wai^t, 16. 

To full length of waist, 18. 

To full length of coat, 37. 

Balance measure, 26. 

Blade measure, 22. 

Upper shoulder measure, 25. 

Lower shoulder measure, 25 1-2. 

Length of sleeve to elbow, 20. 

Full length of sleeve, 33. 

Breast, 36. Waist, 30. 

Measures as recorded in the Measure Book. — 8%, 18, 37, 
26, 22, 25, 25i.< 20, 33, 36, 30. 

The sleeves are now worn so large, that we do not deem it necessary to 
give any measure for them. 



13 



BALANCE. 



To find the balance, subtract the full length of the waist fr«m the balance 
measure, thus — 

Balance Measure, 26 
Length of waist, 18 

Balance, 8 

Whatever the difference between these two measures may be, a corres- 
ponding number will be found, on the end of the ruler, marked balance ; — 
this gives the position of the shoulder. There is another balance in connec- 
tion with this, which governs the distance ; from A to 1, on the back, see 
Plate 1, Diagram 1. 

It is well known to every intelligent cutter, that the upper shoulder mea- 
sure of two persons, one straight and the other stooped, maybe the same. 
If a certain division of the upper shoulder measure is taken, to find the dis- 
tance from A to 1, on the back, it will remain th« same in all cases. The 
result is a crease, or wrinkle in the neck of the coat, which will extend over 
the shoulder to the front of the scye, when on a straight man. And if the 
person is stooped, the coat will stand off from the neck. To remedy this 
defect. Scale 1, on the rule, has been so arranged, as to correspond to a 
balance of 6 inches, and for every inch, balance more than 6 ; deduct one 
quarter in drafting the back ; (in Scale No. 1, each number is divided into 4 
quarters.) And to every inch, balance less than 6, add one quarter, in all 
other parts of the draft, Scale 1, will be used as it is. 



14 

DRAFTING. 

PLATE I. DIAGRAM 1. 

The figures on the diagram, represent the number of the scale to be used 

From A to 1, is Scale 1, upper shouldsr measure. 
From 1 to 3, is Scale 3, 

From 1 to 2, is Scale 2, lower shoulder measure, add i^ inch at 2. 
16 inches is the natural length of the waist, square from line C. 18 in. 
is the full length of waist, square from the outside line. 

PLATE I. DIAGRAM 2. 

Place the back as represented, and mark the side seam. 

From 3 to line G, is the blade measure, 22, Scale 1. 

From 16 to line G, is 1-2 the waist, draw the line G. 

Place the balance end of the ruler, square with the line G, so that the 
aide of the ruler will range with point 2 on the back. Then mark at O, the 
balance 8 ; draw the line B, by O and 2. See the position of the ruler on 
Plate 3, Diagram 6. 

From O to B, is Scale 1, lower shoulder measure. 

From O to 3, is Scale 3, lower shoulder measure. 

From 3 on the back, to e, is j.i the breast measure. Add ig of breast. 

From B to A, is Scale 4, upper shoulder measure. 

From A to 5, is Scale 5, ** " " See the position of 

,jruler, on Plate 3, Diagram 7. 

From e to F, is Scale 5. ** '* Add i^in. at F, and 3^'in. front. 

From B to 1, is Scale 1, lower shoulder measure. 

From 1 to 2, on line D, is Scale 2, lower shoulder measure. Square the 
line D. 

From 3 to 2, is Scale 2, *• *' " Square line H. 

From to 6, on line g, is Scale 6, upper shoulder measure. 

From to 7, is Scale 7, lower shoulder measure. This point is halfway 
ijetween line B and G. 

From to 6, is Scale 6, lower shoulder measure. 

From 6 to 2 on the back, is Scale 7. Square to i. See Plate 3, Diag. 7. 

Place your finger on the prominent part of the side seam, and bring point 
2 on line i, and mark the side seam as represented. Now place the top of 
-the back at a, and bring point 2 on line D. Mark the shoulder seam and 
gorge, by 5 to F. 

Again, bring point 2 on line H, and mark out the scye, by the points 6, 
5, 7 and 6. Cut the under part of the scye a i^ of an inch below 6. 

From 16 to 18, on the forepart, is the same distance as from 16 to 18, 
on the side seam. From 16 on the back, to 16 on the forepart, is ^ the 
waist measure. Scale 1. Square the line 18, and draw the line m by the 
-diagonal line A, on the ruler. 



PLATE 




r LM I L II . 




15 



PLATE II. DIAGRAM 3. 

When the forepart is cut, measure the scye, and draft the sleeve top by 
the scye measure, say 16 inches. 

From 1 to 1, is the whole lower shoulder measure, Scale 1. 

from 1 to 1, on the sleeve, is Scale 1, scye measure. 

From 1 to 8, is Scale 8. 

From line 2 to 6, is Scale 6, lower shoulder measure. ^ 

From 2 to 9, is Scale 9, scye measure. 

From 6 to 8, is Scale 8. All other parts of the sleeve will be governed 
by measure or fashion. 

From 2 to 8, under side sleeve, is Scale 8, scye measure. 

PLATE II. DIAGRAM 4. 

Draw a straight line n, and square to 1. 

From P to N, is the same distance as from P to n, on Plate I, Diagram 2. 

From P to 1, is Scale 1, i^ waist measure. 
Form the skirt according to fashion. 

The distance between those two points, P and n, on Plate I, Diagram 2, 
is obtained by drawing a line from point R to m. See Plate 1, Diagram 2. 
This distance will always give the proper spring for a skirt. 



PLATE 11. DIAGRAM 5, 

Square from the front line to c, and draft by the breast measure. 
From c to top, is }^. 
From c to D, is 3^, 
from D to F, is i|. 



PLATE 








.Yo.7. I 



PLAIh 




17 



PLATE lY. DIAGRAM 8. 



This diagram is drafted sam© as Diagram 2, Plate 1,. except the waist, 
which is drafted by the hip measure. 
From 18 to line g, is l^ ^'^® '"P measure. 
From line g to m, is 3^^ the hip measure. 

Add 1^ at m, as per diagram. Add lapel, and form the forepart. 
From C to D, is 1.3 the hip measure. 
From D to F, is 1-6 the hip measure. 



.0, t^-'i-i \ 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



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014 082 877 4 ^ 



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